wafting through the rooms as you wander around. For concerts, head to the Musikverein for performances by the Wiener Philharmoniker and smaller chamber concerts. Or for operas, book a seat at the grand Staatsoper, or the Theater-an-der-Wien, where works by Beethoven and Strauss originally premiered. STROLL Vienna has a wealth of open spaces and parks, from the sculpted alpine gardens at the Belvedere Castle to the more laid-back, youthful feel of Danube Island. Rathauspark boasts an ice-skating rink in winter and an open-air cinema in summer. Alternatively, take a walk around the Baroque gardens at the Schonbrunn Palace. A well-worn tourist activity is to ride the Ferris wheel at the Prater Amusement Park, which features in the Graham Greene-penned noir film The Third Man. STAY Places to stay in Vienna are plentiful and cater to all budgets. The Hotel Altstadt is located in the arty Spittelberg district, just behind the MuseumsQuartier and features an impressive contemporary art and design collection; Das Tyrol, a cozy former monastery with a small spa, features art works by young Viennese artists; the Konig von Ungarn has the benefit of being in the same complex of 300-year-old buildings as Mozart's one-time living quarters; and the Hilton Vienna Danube has views over the river. EAT Viennese cuisine is not for those watching their waistlines; mouth-watering pastries and